A Year On the C&O Canal

Dickerson to White's Ferry --- Spring on the canal

2010-04-03T19:25:00.000-07:00

Saturday, April 3

3:30 - 5:00 p.m.

Mile 39.6 to mile 35.5

4.1 miles toward goal (164.4 miles to go)

Temperature - 79-degrees

Canal at Dickerson Conservation area

Spring has arrived on the C&O. This was a glorious walk and we were able to take two cars, parking one at each end, so we walked one way, north to south. The Dickerson Conservation area was a simple place to park and began our 4.1 mile trek south to White's Ferry.

The first thing we did was walk across the towpath and down the rocky path to the river where we admired how high the water was today, and where it had risen with the recent flooding after the heavy rains.

Most of the way, we could still see the Potomac through the trees, now with new leaves sprouting. Debris was visible several feet up in the trees alongside the path and the path itself had been severely damaged and washed out in two places.

Cormorants flew low along the river and we saw one great blue heron. We heard several other birds but did not see them. Even with the small amount of green showing on the trees, the birds were so much better hidden than during the bleak days of winter when we could see every creature that made noise. We could hear woodpeckers but did not see even one.

We saw many turtles. They were lined up on logs in the canal, soaking up the afternoon sun. The tree canopy will soon be so thick with leaves that it will be harder to find the rays in the canal.

Along these four miles, the canal was at times dry, filled with sludge and brimming with water. In most places, large trees and bushes were growing in the canal bed and alongside the towpath adjacent to the canal. In many places trees had fallen (some recently) and one fairly large tree was across the path at about mile 37.

In the swampier places, we heard loud noises that sounded more like spaceships from the twilight zone. On closer inspection we discovered many frogs , busy doing what frogs do at this time of year. My photos are somewhat intrusive but interesting.

We walked past Woods Lock, Lock 26, where there is a clearing and the remains of the lockhouse foundation. A beautiful large maple tree is adjacent to the ruins.

One of the highlights of the walk was the abundance of Virginia bluebells along both sides of the towpath. They were in full bloom and hundreds of them were in many places, their purples and blues calling to us to admire each one of them.

It was a beautiful day to walk, and we finished with a nice ride back across the Potomac on White's Ferry.

Edwards Ferry (mile 30.9) to Mile 33

2010-03-10T12:33:00.000-08:00

Monday, March 8

1:00 - 3:00 p.m.

Mile 30.9 to mile 33

2.1 miles toward goal (164.5 miles to go)

Temperature - 65-degrees

The drive to Lock 25 at the end of Edwards Ferry Road was a long one. River Road is quite remote at that point. Two other cars were in the parking lot, which has a boat launch and a nice view of the Potomac. Lock 25 is crumbly with a lockhouse in very good condition.

Jarboe's Store is being rebuilt. It is a reminder of the days when locks were a place where the canal boats supplied merchandise for the customers along the canal.

The towpath was littered with fallen trees and branches. Our walk turned into a service project as we stopped every few feet to move branches from the path; in some cases the logs were two heavy for two people to handle. Many trees were down in the woods and across the canal, which is quite overgrown with trees and bushes.

Once we left the parking lot, the river was only visible where the trees had been clear cut in two places. There were several streams running under the towpath from the canal and we saw one great blue heron between the river and the towpath. We saw several downy woodpeckers, a single pileated woodpecker, a large flock of tufted titmice, chickadees, cardinals and even a few eastern bluebirds. We decided that the great noise from our feet constantly crunching on the fallen sticks and branches littering the path may have deterred some of the birds from coming closer.

In defiance of the early March date and the bit of snow still on the ground, two very optimistic turtles were sunning in a shallow, sunny, protected area of the canal. We saw no others.

We spent 2 hours walking round trip and covered only a little more than 4 miles. Because of the path-clearing, we had less walking time. But we were glad to help make it a little easier for the next walkers to get through. It was a beautiful day to be outdoors.

We left Edwards Ferry and traveled north on Old River Road, which is more of a gravel path than a road. It wound several miles through woods and farmland and finally met White's Ferry Road. We crossed the canal, boarded the ferry and in only a few minutes had crossed the Potomac into Loudon County, Virginia, en route home.

Snowy, Slushy, Slippery Walk

2010-02-21T20:30:00.000-08:00

Sunday, February 21, 2010

10:30 a.m. - 11:00 a.m.

.25 miles, .5 miles round trip south from Lock 10

12-18" of snow on the towpath; it was too slippery to walk!

12:00 p.m. - 1:00 p.m.

About 1.5 miles

Great Falls Tavern, Lock 20, to Lock 18 and on the boardwalk to the Great Falls Overlook

Temperature 44-degrees and sunny

Lockhouse at Lock 10

The heavy snows had prevented a return to the canal for some weeks so we decided to walk in an area close to Washington, DC, hoping that the path would be worn and the slightly warmer temperatures had melted the ice and snow. That was not the case. We had not counted on the depth of the snow, and the shade that kept the sun from speeding up the melting process.

There was at least a foot of snow on the towpath, walking south from Lock 10 at about mile 9 on the towpath. We walked 1/4 to 1/2 mile, past lock 9 and nearly to Lock 8 when one of us slipped for the umpteenth time and we made a mutual decision to turn around. It was miserable. The person who traveled across the path on skis was far smarter than we; the Uggs were not good substitutes and walking was treacherous.

Sadly, we couldn't even get a view of the river from this location, but the old locks are always interesting to see and we saw some mallards who were oblivious to the snow and cold. We decided to go to Carderock Recreation Area so we could at least see the river.

At Carderock, the snow was just as deep, but those before us had forged a path to a spot where we could see the river; today it was a beautiful blue green color and flowing fast. We saw a pileated woodpecker, a junco and plenty of crows. There was little we could do there, as it was hard walking, so we headed for Great Falls Park where we knew the towpath would be a little clearer.

Great Falls Tavern Visitors Center

The Tavern is always a welcoming sight at Great Falls Park. The snow was deep around it, but the paths were clear...

...and very muddy. We walked from the Tavern, past Locks 20, 19, and 18. This is part of the path I have walked many times before. Unlike the path at Lock 10, it was not packed with snow!

The view of the river was pretty and the snow on the ground made the Virginia shore across the river look much closer. We took the boardwalk out to the falls overlook. It is always beautiful and never the same. Many of the boulders in the river were still snow-topped.

The lichens on the rocks near the falls were pretty against the stark white of the snow. Ice still covered the surface of standing water and the white limbs of the sycamores stood out against the painted blue sky.

While we accomplished but half a mile of new walking on the canal, about 2 miles in total, it was a great day to be outdoors. The warmth of the sun convinced us that spring will come. In the meantime we are thankful for days like this. I am anxious to continue my walks on the towpath, but only after the snow has melted.

McKee-Besher Wildlife Management Area to Mile 30

2010-01-24T16:09:00.000-08:00

Sunday, January 24, 2010

9:30 - 11:30 a.m.

3 miles from Mile 27 (south of McKee-Besher Wildlife Management Area) to Mile 30, 6 miles round trip

Total to date toward goal = 17 miles (167.5 to go)

Temperature 39-degrees

Access to this canal entrance is down a very rough gravel road with enormous potholes. The runoff from the nearby turf farm causes an unpleasant stench. Hunting is allowed in these woods and, frankly, it was a little bit creepy getting to the parking area, which was mostly mud, ice and giant potholes. We saw some hunters parked closer to the road, geared up in camouflage and toting guns.

It was drizzling and overcast with a little bit of fog. The canopy of trees over the path helped to protect us from the elements. At most points on this walk, we were very close to the Potomac. There were several places where it was possible to walk down to the river or look over the banks.

Several small islands were close to shore and with the recent rains there was a good bit of debris. The trail was wet, no longer icy, and very muddy in places. There were signs of horses having recently been along the path. Unlike previous walks, the path was not well graded or firm. For about a mile of the walk, the turf farm was visible beyond the trees on the other side of the canal.

The canal was filled with water, covered with a thick layer of ice in some spots and overgrown with trees. The sycamore trees beside the river and canal were the largest I have seen on the canal so far. Many old trees were uprooted and toppled over; others looked as if it would not take much to make them horizontal too.

We saw several pileated, downy and red-bellied woodpeckers, lots of nuthatches, and titmice. Chickadees seemed to follow us, curious to see humans on such a dreary day. At least one pair of golden-crowned kinglets were flitting around the low bushes, also paying some attention to us. One enormous great blue heron flew up into the trees and we admired his enormous wingspan (72" according to the National Geographic Field Guide to the Birds of North America).

We walked to mile marker 30 and turned around, because the weather was not improving. Since this was another round-trip walk, it only yielded 3 miles on my trek to walk the whole C&O. Longer walks are definitely going to be necessary - but not in the rain!

It has been fun to have friends and family join me on the walks so far. I hope to continue that tradition.

Swain's Lock to Pennyfield Lock

2010-01-18T17:05:00.000-08:00

Monday, January 18, 2010

1:30 - 3:30 p.m.

3 miles from Swain's Lock (mile 16.6, Lock 21) to Pennyfield Lock (mile 19.6, Lock 22)

6 miles roundtrip

Total to date toward goal = 14 miles (170.5 to go)

Temperature about 50-degrees

We missed our volunteer project for MLK Day due to electrical problems (waiting on the electrician) so instead headed to the C&O to enjoy the beautiful weather on this federal holiday. We saw more people on this trip, and the parking lot at Swain's Lock was nearly full. On the towpath, we encountered about 20 people, mostly bikers in groups and a few runners.

This is a less remote part of the path, with large homes visible on the hills above and behind the canal. There are many little islands dotting the Potomac River on this three-mile stretch and it is quite narrow in places.

A WSSC water treatment plant is less than a mile north of Swain's Lock; there you can walk right up to the river and look at the water rushing by.

We saw a Great Blue Heron on the canal, several groups of ducks, goldfinches, a few downy woodpeckers, crows, vultures, geese, and some nuthatches. Hawks circled overhead and along the river; we spotted one when its large shadow moved over us. We saw huge nests in the very tall trees along the Virginia side of the Potomac. We saw a bald eagle flying low along the water, moving north, with a fish in its mouth. It flew into the trees on the Virginia side (you can barely see the eagle flying low over the water in the photo directly above).

The canal was still frozen in some places. The melting ice had some beautiful patterns, presumably from the plants waving below the thawing surface.

Most of the ice had melted from the trail and no snow was left in the woods. There was no ice in the Potomac.

This was the first walk where we did not spot any pileated woodpeckers. Reasons may be that the woods were less dense, humanity was closer, and the water treatment plant was nearby. We also saw carcasses of two deer, in different places along the far bank of the canal. They were near the high fences around the water treatment facility and presumably a predator was able to corner them as a result.

Pennyfield lock #22 is undergoing construction. The lockhouse is quite attractive and in very good shape. It is one of the four Canal Quarters lockhouses that are available for rent to the public in a partnership between the C&O Canal Trust and the National Park Service. The rentals have varying amenities (some do not have heat or plumbing).

It was a perfect day for a walk. It felt like early spring. Seeing a bald eagle was pretty special and spending time with my favorite 25 year old was priceless.

Senaca Aqueduct to Horsepen

2010-01-16T21:22:00.000-08:00

Saturday, January 16, 2010
1:30 - 4:00 p.m.
3.2 miles from Seneca Aqueduct (lock 24, mile 22.8) to Horsepen (mile 26)
6.4 miles roundtrip
Total to date toward goal = 11 miles (173.5 to go)
Temperature about 45-degrees

There is ample parking behind the lockhouse at Lock 24, Riley's Lock. Two of the original three arches of Seneca Aqueduct are easily visible and there is a nice area for picnicking. We saw fewer than a dozen walkers and runners during the entire walk.

Once on the trail, we could hear the noise of the water rushing over the dam immediately to the south.

Walking north, the towpath is quite shady, with trees on both sides of the path. There are more birds and squirrels here than in the more heavily traveled areas below Swain's Lock and the river was always visible through the trees. Further north, there are small islands in the river, many still with snow on them; the river had quite a few large pieces of ice floating in it and we saw ducks and geese, at several points.

The squirrels were busy in the woods on both sides of the canal, chasing one another and digging through the leaves. We saw one blue heron, nearly hidden by the brush and fallen trees, fishing by the river.

We spotted at least a dozen pileated woodpeckers. Additionally, we saw downy woodpeckers, some flickers, several thrush, titmice, goldfinch, chickadees, and sparrows, and a catbird.

The path was slushy with melting ice and snow. The river was visible the entire way. At times the canal was nearly invisible due to the underbrush and large trees that have grown in the canal bed. Enormous bird nests dotted the treetops along the canal.

After we turned around at the Horsepen campsite, we heard gunshots nearby, presumably from hunters. We hoped that the proximity was distorted due to the low cloud cover.

It was a pretty walk and the canopy of trees made it seemed all the more remote. Back at Lock 24, we explored the attractive picnic area and the view downstream toward the dam.

Great Falls to Swain's Lock

2010-01-10T20:12:00.000-08:00

Sunday, January 10, 2010
11:30 a.m. - 1:30 p.m.

It was a beautiful morning to walk north from Great Falls Visitors Center at Lock 20, mile 14.3. The temperature was about 28-degrees when we departed and 30 or 31 when we returned. The towpath was almost deserted with fewer than 10 walkers and bikers for the entire two hours.

My son and I took Dallas, the now 12 year old lab, but were uncertain whether we would be warm enough. It was not windy and we were comfortable in our wool, fleece and down layers.

The day was stunning with no clouds in the sky; the reflections on the river and the canal were bright and most of the snow from the pre-Christmas blizzard and this week's 2-inch fall was gone. The path was very clear and not slippery; where there was ice it was mixed with gravel from the path. The white trunks of the sycamores were striking against the blue sky.

It was a birder's paradise. At least 6 pileated woodpeckers, just as many downy woodpeckers, a blue heron who I almost missed because he blended in with his perch, a flock of cardinals, dozens of chickadees, at least a dozen nuthatches, several tufted titmice, and dark-eyed juncos. The bare trees ensured visibility but the woodpeckers were wisely distrustful and kept their distance.

We took the River Trail down to see the frozen water and follow the sounds of the water birds. We laughed and decided that the honking of the geese sounded like a playground full of adolescent boys. There were many mallards and canadian geese and there were signs that a fox or other predator had successfully captured at least one of them. The water was full of ice and moving swiftly.

Along the towpath, the animal prints were visible in the snow on top of the frozen canal water. We recognized rabbit tracks and suspected others were raccoon, fox and opossum.

There are several small islands in the Potomac close to Swain's Lock (Minnehaha, Gladys, Lock and Beall). The water birds congregated on and about the islands. The view across the river was gorgeous, with snow visible on the VIrginia shore and large chunks of ice floating in the river.

Swain's Lock (#21) is at mile 16.6. The Lock is named for the Swain family whose members began working on the original construction of the canal and operated the lock. Until 2006 the family operated a boat rental and concession stand from Lockhouse 21.

It was a beautiful walk to Swain's Lock and back. The sun helped keep us warm and the dog entertained us while we spotted birds and enjoyed the varied views. The icicles formed by the water running off the hills made for a winter wonderland atmosphere.

We returned to the car, glad for the seat warmers and the heat but refreshed and invigorated from nearly five miles of walking. The dog slept the whole way home.

After the First Snowfall

2009-12-06T17:56:00.000-08:00

Sunday, December 6, 2009
2:00 - 3:00 p.m.
My son, our dog, Dallas, and I took a short hike on the towpath from Carderock south to mile marker 9, about 3 miles round trip. The first snowfall of the season was yesterday and the path was slushy and the tree branches still held some soft snow. The weather was cool, in the low 40's, and it was overcast.

From approximately mile 10.5 to mile marker 9, we passed four locks (14-11) and went under the Capital Beltway (I-495). This is in an area known as "Seven Locks" where there are seven locks (#8-14) very close together. This photograph is of Lock 14

The noise near the beltway is deafening. It is a strange experience to walk under it and hear the roar overhead and echoing all around. We were glad to be clear of it.

There were three shallow places on the canal where several ducks congregated. They were all mallards except one brown one with a white bib. We also saw one pileated woodpecker, many robins and cardinals, several sparrows and finches. My son saw a deer and I said "no, that's two deer" and then we realized we were actually seeing three, only a short distance across the canal but in a heavily wooded area.

Several bicyclists passed us. One had a white dog, with black muddy spots from the tires splashing through the slush, perched in a wire basket on the rear. We saw a few other hikers and runners. Otherwise, we had the path to ourselves and enjoyed lively conversation and discussed my plan to hike all of the C&O Canal in the coming year. I am excited. My son suggested I get a map and begin marking off the areas I have already hiked.

It is hardly visible when the leaves are on the trees, but the Potomac River view was pretty between Carderock and the beltway and the sound of rushing water was very clear at one rocky point where the elevation dropped.

The snow enhanced the natural beauty of the day. It gave the canal character and was a wonderful backdrop for the dramatic trees and water views.

Back at Carderock park, we let the dog off leash and threw snowballs for him. We walked to the edge of the picnic area overlooking the river and enjoyed the pretty view below. Even at 3:00, the sun was falling and the shadows were long.

view of the Potomac River from Carderock Park

Thanksgiving Weekend, 2009

2009-12-02T15:15:00.000-08:00

After two glorious days of walking on the C&O Canal on the two most perfect days of the Thanksgiving weekend, it occurred to me that I have been to Great Falls and along the Canal a lot this year, and that it is now time to start recording my experiences.

This begins A Year on the C&O Canal.

Saturday, November 29
2:00 - 5:00 p.m.
My son and I ate turkey sandwiches in the car en route to Great Falls, Maryland to begin our hike. We noticed how badly deteriorated the park entrance road was and how the downed leaves makes such a difference in the visibility through the woods.

We spent 3 hours walking from Great Falls to Carderock and back. There were many other people, and a lot of dogs looking silly wearing sweaters. Fortunately there is enough room that we could escape and have some time to ourselves.

We saw many buzzards soaring overhead and joked that we must look dead as they spiraled closer. We saw an old-looking blue heron standing on one leg watching the water.

Squirrels ran about picking up things to store for the colder days of winter. We were more aware of them because of the crunching noises they made as they scratched about in the brittle leaves.

A few things jumped and splashed in the canal. As the sun sank lower, we pointed out the reflections on the canal and the beautiful colors of the light shining on the bare trees. It looks very much different when the leaves have fallen.

The sun was low in the sky by the time we reached Carderock and needed to turn around. We arrived back at Great Falls almost at 5 and walked out to view the Falls as the sun was going down over the horizon. I have never been there that late in the day. There was a bit more mist and the water was higher than it was on my last visit. It is such an impressive view and the sound of the water pounding over the rocks is so loud that it drowned out the sounds of all the other visitors.

We covered about 7.5 miles on our hike and left for home and more Thanksgiving leftovers!

December 1, 2009
12:30 - 3:30 p.m.
It was my dear friend's birthday and we decided to defy old age and get in a long walk before our celebration dinner. We headed toward Washington, DC with our water bottles and snacks; we had both forgotten to have lunch before our hike.

It was a big day for pileated woodpeckers. Our first sighting was about 2 miles from Great Fall. We heard their calls and then saw two of them swooping about between trees, stopping, peeking around at us and hammering before moving on. My photograph is taken from some distance away. They never stayed in one place long enough and never got very close to us. Later we saw at least four more. This is one of the big advantages of bare trees.

We also saw sparrows, titmice, cardinals, chickadees, nuthatches, robins, and a kingfisher. Mallard ducks congregated on the canal in the shallower parts where there were plenty of reeds and water plants for protection. With one mallard group was a single male Northern Pintail duck.

We saw one red-tailed hawk soaring overhead and several buzzards.

The sycamore trees were exceptionally beautiful against the blue sky when you can see their white trunks and dramatic branches.

We walked almost 4 miles from Great Falls and passed Carderock before turning around.

On the way back, near Great Falls, I had just finished commenting that we had not seen a Blue Heron when my friend spotted one close to the canal shore. The sun was low in the sky and the reflection of the trees in the water made an interesting background for his portrait.

It was a good day for a walk, and a birthday.